Alberta to Arizona
While on a vacation tour from Alberta to Arizona in late April to early May, we took a number of photos which represent some small portion of the beauty of the Rocky Mountain and Southwest Desert scenery which we passed through. Here are a few images from April 24th to April 27, covering the trip south from northern Montana to the Grand Canyon. As a point to ponder, it is not possible to share the magnificence of the landscapes in any meaningful fashion in just a few photos, but for those who have not had the pleasure of travelling this region, perhaps this teaser will give some sense of the greatness of the land. The generosity and friendliness of the people should be experienced in person. As a second point to ponder, it has become clear to me that photos lie. For, as much information as one can pass on via an image, there is much that is not captured - or captured imperfectly, perhaps - which the photographer cannot or will not pass along due to message size, clarity, or the risk of boring a viewer. In addition, taking photos while travelling means passing through locations in mid-day ( or mid-afternoon, sunset, early morning, or cloud, fog or haze) which are best viewed in other light conditions. So the images below may not be the best, or the most colorful, but instead were chosen to convey a sense of the journey.
1. The Sweetgrass Hills, Montana - Taken mid-afternoon on April 24, along I-15. This is a photo, cropped to show the horizon and foreground, of the arc of volcanic cones which lie just south of the 49th parallel. These landmark hills provide a fine counterpoint to the vastness of the prairie grasslands which surround them.

2. South of Butte, Montana - Taken mid-afternoon on April 25, along I-15. The weather was being spring-like, with clear skies in the morning and scattered showers moving through in the afternoon. The grassy, sage-brush covered range of the valley floor gives way to pine slopes and fresh snow on the heights of Mt. Fleecer (9436 ft). This photo was cropped also, with the purpose of focusing the viewer’s attention on the landscape.

3. Montana, Late April - Taken afternoon on April 25, along I-15. Taken near the Idaho state line, this view to the south, shows fresh snow on the upper slopes of the Continental Divide that rise without preamble from the farms and ranches of Dell and Lima, Montana. The peak of Garfield Mountain, on the right of the image rises to 10,961 fr, while the Interstate passes through Monida Pass, out of sight on the left, at 6870 ft.

4. After spending the night at Cedar City, we headed east up Cedar Canyon on Highway 14, which breaks the great escarpment of the Hurricane Cliffs. At milepost 19, near the summit pass which crests at 9910 ft, a viewpoint to the south gives us a panorama of the northern part of Zion National Park. (For those interested, the Viewpoint and the Highway are on the dividing line between the Markagunt Plateau to the north and the Kolob Terrace to the south - p. 185, "Roadside Geology of Utah", Halka Chronic)

5. Driving southeast to the Glen Canyon Dam, then south, and west, we arrived at the Grand Canyon past mid-afternoon on April 27th. For all that has been written about this area, the words of the information panels near the Desert View tourist center give the most poignant perspective I’ve read: "Spanish Discovery" Near here in late summer of 1540, soldiers from the Spanish expedition of Francisco Vasquez de Coronado became the first Europeans to see Grand Canyon.

After journeying for six months, Coronado’s army arrived at the Hopi mesas, east of Grand Canyon. From there Garcia Lopez de Cardenas, guided by Hopi Indians, led a small party of men to find a reported "great river". After 20 days they reached the south rim of Grand Canyon, emerging from the forest to stand on the edge of this vast chasm. Cardenas’s party spent three days trying to reach the bottom of the canyon, in vain, then returned to Coronado to report their discovery. "The Discovery Site" The exact site where Cardenas and his men first saw Grand Canyon is unknown. Cardenas described the site as "elevated and full of low twisted pines… lying open to the north." This, along with descriptions of their travel route, places the site between here and Desert View. "How do we know?" Around 1560 Pedro de Castenada, a soldier with Coronado (but not one who saw the canyon) recorded his memories of the expedition 20 years earlier. It is from him that we have our record of Cardenas’s discovery of Grand Canyon. Castenada reported frustration and amazement: "After they had gone twenty days they came to the banks of the river ( the canyon rim)… They spent three days on this bank looking for a passage down… It was impossible to descend… The three lightest and most agile men, made an attempt to go down at the least difficult place, and went down until those who were above were unable to keep sight of them. They returned about four o’clock in the afternoon, not having succeeded…. Thos who stayed above had estimated that some huge rocks on the side of the cliffs seemed to be about as tall as a man, but those who went down swore that when they reached these rocks, they were bigger than the great tower of Seville." This view of the canyon, from near Desert View lookout, shows the Colorado River flowing several miles to the north, more than 5,000 feet below the camera. 6. Near great natural features, one often finds tourists who gather to ponder the beauty at the change of day, whether at dawn or dusk. Here, as shadows lengthen, a group of people gather near Mather Point to absorb the ambience. These people are perched at over 7,300 ft above sea level, while the river runs below them around the 2,300 ft.level.

Once reaching Arizona, we moved south from Grand Canyon to Tempe, which is part of metro-Phoenix. Using that area as a home base, we travelled around, to a variety of touristy places, learning the local history and enjoying the food and ambience. A partial summary of our experiences in the Phoenix/Tuscon area: 1. Best evening dinner - Beef Ribs at "Claim Jumper", off I-10 and Baseline Road. We found this restaurant by accident after looking for a Bennigan’s - which turned out to be closed. The serving was abundant and delicious, and the server was most attentive and professional. 2. Best fast food lunch - Chalupas Combo at the Taco Bell near Casa Grande. This restaurant was clean, the service was fast, and the meal was tasty. ( Side-note: Casa Grande - The ruins of a large building built by the Hohokam culture about 1300 A.D., then abandoned about 1400 A.D. Archeologists puzzle about the cause, but one theory, which I found reasonable was that the American Southwest was enveloped in a mega-drought. At roughly the same time, Europe was experiencing the trauma of the Little Ice Age, and the Norse settlements in Greenland were dying. This agrarian culture developed about 1500 B.C., and developed increasingly sophisticated settlements for the next 2800 years. They co-existed with the Ancestral Pueblo, the Patayan, the Mogollon and the Rio Sonoran cultures, and also shared the same fate, as the environment grew too harsh to sustain any population above basic subsistence. The last 100 years of the Hohokam was marked with decline and abandonment of their villages, as they dispersed into smaller, more sustainable units. When the Spanish explored this area in the late 1600’s, they found Casa Grande in ruins and local tribal units of a people who called themselves the O’odham, who appear to be the descendants of the Hohokam. ) 3. Best "regional" treat shop - The "Arizona Nut House", off I-10 near Picacho Peak. The variety of flavored Pistachios was amazing in itself. Annie liked the Mesquite-Hickory flavored ones the best. 4. Most unusual sign - Outside a very small, old, hotel with a corner restaurant named "Brooks Outback" in the tiny burg of Wenden, west of Phoenix: "Hot Beer. Lousy Food. Bad Service. Welcome. Have-a-nice-day" Here are some of the images we found from the evening of April 27 to April 30th: 7. Grand Canyon at sunset, from Mather Point, looking up river. On the far horizon, about an inch, or 25 mm, from the right side of the image, is the Desert View Tower, about 13 miles/ 21 km distant. It is too small to see in this photo, but clear enough in binoculars or with a more powerful zoom lens. Most scholars accept that between these two points lies the place that the Hopi brought the Spaniards of Cardenas’s party to view the river in late September, 1540. Michael Anderson, in "Living at the Edge", writes of that first Spanish expedition to Grand Canyon (P.16): "In all probability, the Hopis successfully pulled the wool over these first European eyes to view Grand Canyon. They knew of far easier and shorter routes from their homes to the Colorado River, which was what the Spaniards sought, after all, not a mile-high scenic view. Even after leading the Spaniards to the South Rim, the guides could have shown them down a variation of today’s Tanner Trail which led to traditional Hopi salt mines at river level. They also could have anticipated the Spaniard’s desire to find a water route to the sea and led them farther west, along the Hopi-Havasupai-Mohave Trade Trail (Moquai Trail) to the navigable lower Colorado River. Hopi leaders very likely advised their men to guide the unwelcome sojourners along an exaggerated path to the highest point above the river and to volunteer no information of value. "If this was the Hopis’ intent, the ruse worked. The Spaniards left the region convinced that a near-waterless wasteland lay west of the Hopi pueblos, difficult to traverse and to no purpose. They could view the canyon only as an impenetrable barrier prohibiting Spanish exploration to the northwest. The party returned to Zuni with these assessments and no Spanish military force ever again approached Grand Canyon. Coronado returned to Mexico City in 1542, discredited for having found nothing of value and bankrupt for having tried."

8. A pair of sightseers pondering the morning view, west of Yavapai point. One thing that I had not absorbed, prior to visiting Grand Canyon, is the height of the Coconino Plateau, from which one stands on the South Rim. At Mather Point, the elevation is 7118 ft, while the river runs at about 2300 ft, giving a vertical section of almost 4800 ft.. The sensation is akin to going to visit a rugged mountain area, but looking down, rather than looking up. Walking a skyline trail in the mountains is a real pleasure, but one limited to those who are fit enough to cope with the hike to the top. At Grand Canyon, tourists - many of them with physical handicaps - can arrive at the South Rim in cars or buses, and after a journey of a few dozen yards, share the experience of viewing a magnificent vista.

9. Palo Verde in blossom near the Tonto National Monument. The desert in late April is full of color, with yellow being a common color. Mesquite and Creosote bushes also have yellow blossoms, although one variety of mesquite has a bluish/purple flower. Many cactus blossoms are yellow as well, but we saw a variety of other brilliant colors. The warmest temperatures were in the Phoenix area, generally in the mid-90’s. Moving southeast to Tuscon, or north to Sedona, the daily high temperatures were in the 80’s.

10. Apache Trail Overlook. Northeast of Apache Junction runs highway 88, to the Theodore Roosevelt Dam, and the recreational sites of the reservoir behind it. The highway is a nice, winding paved two-lane road for about half the trip. At the top of Fish Creek Hill, the asphalt ends, and the road descends down a narrow, treacherous trail to the desert basin beyond. The last 22 miles are dirt. This is the only numbered U.S. highway that I can recall which is not upgraded beyond single lane bridges and a scattering of gravel. Theodore Roosevelt wrote: "The Apache Trail combines the grandeur of the Alps, the Glory of the Rockies, the magnificences of Grand Canyon, and then adds an indefinable something that none of the others have. To me, it is the most awe-inspiring and most sublimely beautiful panorama nature has ever created." While Roosevelt obviously had a reason to talk up this locale, seeing as how a dam bearing his name was at the end of the road, the scenery has a rugged, challenging makeup which provokes the eye. Originally an aboriginal route to the valley where the Salt River ran, the road was constructed so that supplies could be hauled for the construction of the dam at the end of the road.

11. Sunset on the Superstition Mountains. Mesquite and Saguaro stand in front, as darkness flows over the landscape. This location is near Dutchman’s Trail, just outside of Apache Junction.

Enjoy, for your contemplation, Jim Szpajcher













