I’ve headed a fair number of hikes, and the weather usually behaves

itself. You’ll get a little freezing rain sometimes, but I have yet to

see anything that couldn’t be defeated by an umbrella.

The weather on October 25th was outright cruel. The sky was a dull

grey overcast, and there was heavy snow hovering over the Plain of the

Six Glaciers. The path was incredibly slippery, even on flat ground! The

hills were impossible, literally; another group of hikers turned back

before reaching the tea house, yet all of them had ice cleats.

We had to settle for the end of the lake. No umbrella in existence could have changed that.

To rub salt on the wound, by the time we’d retreated to the Chateau

the weather had opened up. The snow stopped snowing, and the clouds were

parting. Within two hours, the only reminder of the horrible conditions

was a sharp wind. Of course the improved weather made the icy paths even

more impossible, and came too late to attempt a major hike anyway.

Still, any hike can be salvaged by a good lunch and a good walk. We

had both. Vermillion Lakes came to my rescue, and while my inner hiker

cringed at walking on the road, at least there wasn’t any ice! The

improved weather was perfect for this photogenic spot, and Maria and I

took full advantage.

(by hj hornbeck)